Arrived in El Chalten just in time to catch the national park visitors centre before it closed... well in fact they stayed open for us.... learned about the routes we could take and then went to the campsite. Debs and I hit the very limited shops to find dinner for the following night while Pat cooked with Daphna and Lori. Strange place... like Puerto Moreno in some ways.... lots of small corner shop type supermarkets selling a completely random selection of goods. Anyway accomplished our task and ran into some of the boys who gallantly carried it all back to the campsite for us. Had dinner and hit the sack.
Got up early to make eggs for the guys going on the glacier walk then we head off on our walk up a hill to a viewpoint and then on to a lagoon at the bottom of a glacier... 18km is a bit of a long way for my short legs but the view at the end was worth it. Unfortunately it was so so windy that you could only look at the view for 10 seconds before retreating behind a rock. Lovely walk back alongside glacial river for the first part, but then the final decent into el chalten was a nightmare as the wind picket up even more.. they guys who went on a boat trip said the windex was reading 100mph. As we hit the town we saw Cameron (the dragoman truck) so hitched a ride back to the campsite.
Cooked dinner... rice with sweet and sour veg + beef and veg in soy sauce and red wine... went down a treat.
Got up this morning to more wind, so are having a rest day getting laundry done and checking mail.
Sunday, December 30, 2007
Thursday, December 27, 2007
Esquelle? and Puerto Morena
2 Days of travelling have followed.... with our first night under canvas. Boxing day was relatively short drive... approx 250km, and ended in a great campsite on the side of a hill. We experienced the first of many group cooked meals which I anticipate will be as varied as the people cooking them.... however with a recurring pasta theme.
Early start today and a long long drive on Route 40 accross what I can only describe as barran, windswept, deserted terrain, occasionally interupted by what looked like ghost towns, but were populated. The road turned from Tarmac to gravel and it was a slow and bumpy journey to an equally windswept and dusty gravel campsite... more of the same tomorrow until we reach the national parks again and stay at El Chalten.
Early start today and a long long drive on Route 40 accross what I can only describe as barran, windswept, deserted terrain, occasionally interupted by what looked like ghost towns, but were populated. The road turned from Tarmac to gravel and it was a slow and bumpy journey to an equally windswept and dusty gravel campsite... more of the same tomorrow until we reach the national parks again and stay at El Chalten.
Onward to Bariloche - chocolate capital of Argentina
Another long day on the truck ended in us arriving in beautiful Bariloche. Our wonderful new friends donated the only 2 person room to us and we started to enjoy the fantastic alpine town of Bariloche. Christmas eve we went on a lake and waterfall trip. An early start to get us to the first boat which took us across a stunning blue lake towards the chillian border. Next onto a bus to the next lake which was in contrast a vivid green, onto a smaller boat for a round trip to an alternative Chillean border crossing. Back on the Bus and then a lovely walk to a fantastic waterfall before final boat and bus home. Some entertainment caused by the YTS driver of the return boat.... never seen such appalling boat handling from a professional.
Back to the hostel for a quick change and taxi into town, after 4 attempts found an ATM willing to give us money and then found a chocolate shop and supermarket to stock up for lunch. Had dinner at an all you can eat buffet with amazing selection... Buffet table must have been about 20 metres long.
Christmas morning spent pigging chocolate and lazing around until we decided to take lunch down to the lake where we shared the shade of a tree with some young brazilians on holiday. we shared some of mums christmas cake with them and they told us they were on a climbing holiday..... would have loved to have climbed but I´m a bit out of practice now. Managed to coax myself into the lake.... it took 10 minutes and I swam for about 30 seconds before escaping the freezing water. Back to the hostel and changed for dinner.
we all went out for dinner together and Franz one of the tour leaders handed out the secret santa gifts... chocolate, a bag and a duck cork for us. Shared a fantastic starter but the main was delayed so much we cancelled it... the starter was more than a meal in itself so we had a very cheap feed. Back to the hostel to share the remaining cake and whiskey picked up in duty free with friends... great day.
Back to the hostel for a quick change and taxi into town, after 4 attempts found an ATM willing to give us money and then found a chocolate shop and supermarket to stock up for lunch. Had dinner at an all you can eat buffet with amazing selection... Buffet table must have been about 20 metres long.
Christmas morning spent pigging chocolate and lazing around until we decided to take lunch down to the lake where we shared the shade of a tree with some young brazilians on holiday. we shared some of mums christmas cake with them and they told us they were on a climbing holiday..... would have loved to have climbed but I´m a bit out of practice now. Managed to coax myself into the lake.... it took 10 minutes and I swam for about 30 seconds before escaping the freezing water. Back to the hostel and changed for dinner.
we all went out for dinner together and Franz one of the tour leaders handed out the secret santa gifts... chocolate, a bag and a duck cork for us. Shared a fantastic starter but the main was delayed so much we cancelled it... the starter was more than a meal in itself so we had a very cheap feed. Back to the hostel to share the remaining cake and whiskey picked up in duty free with friends... great day.
Pucon
Next day Pat still not feeling well so after a short walk he went back to bed while I chilled out, went shopping for some simple food and generally lazed around before making soup for lunch. In the afternoon I went horse riding with some of the other guys..... unlike my previous attempt the beast seemed to do some of the things I asked of it. Stunning scenery, particularly when we stopped for a bite to eat at a fantastic lake. Unfortunately had to wait 2 hours to be picked up but the setting couln´t have been better for a long wait... a lovely farm in the middle of nowhere. Unfortunately on my return Pat still wasn´t good but Will the Doc had been to see him so that was re-assuring. Simple dinner and bed.
Next day Pat feeling much better so we went shopping for our secret santa gifts and then went to the lake for a picnic lunch. Pasta for dinner and another early night before the next day of travelling.
Next day Pat feeling much better so we went shopping for our secret santa gifts and then went to the lake for a picnic lunch. Pasta for dinner and another early night before the next day of travelling.
Tuesday, December 25, 2007
Chilean Wine and the drive to Pucon
Woke up at 5am in Santiago to be ready to get on the Dragoman Truck at 6am. Packed the remaining kit and went down for breakfast. Everything to do with the Truck was a bit new but 70% of the guys travelling had been on the Truck for a while before this leg. We left our bags in a big pile outside the breakfast room and when we went back they were gone... a quick look outside found half the male contingent very efficiently doing the backpack jigsaw to squeeze everybody´s kit into the back locker. Went into the Truck to find daysacks on all seats except the back one so put our kit there... later found out that you swap seats every day to make sure everybody talks to everybody else. Regular Pitstops (or was that pee stops... hard to tell with Luca´s Italian accent) en route, a 10 am Winery visit and we were all asleep.
Lunch was organised by a couple of the guys.... again everybody pulled together with Military precision... the truck pulls up, and before you can blink there are big tables out, boxes of plates and cuttlery, folding chairs, 5 bowls of water for washing, disinfecting and rinsing hands and crockery.
Such a long day.... started 6 am and arrived Pucon about 8pm.... Patrick felt really ill and so stayed in the room while went out with the rest of the Guys to the hostel owners father in law´s farm for an assado (BBQ). Fantastic food and wonderful view of the snow capped volcano... such a pity that Patrick missed it.
Got back to the Hostel and Patrick looked pretty rough..... (never going to let him drink white wine again, though we have no idea what made him so ill). Luckily we have some doctors travelling with us so one of them kept an eye on him.
More to follow later...
Lunch was organised by a couple of the guys.... again everybody pulled together with Military precision... the truck pulls up, and before you can blink there are big tables out, boxes of plates and cuttlery, folding chairs, 5 bowls of water for washing, disinfecting and rinsing hands and crockery.
Such a long day.... started 6 am and arrived Pucon about 8pm.... Patrick felt really ill and so stayed in the room while went out with the rest of the Guys to the hostel owners father in law´s farm for an assado (BBQ). Fantastic food and wonderful view of the snow capped volcano... such a pity that Patrick missed it.
Got back to the Hostel and Patrick looked pretty rough..... (never going to let him drink white wine again, though we have no idea what made him so ill). Luckily we have some doctors travelling with us so one of them kept an eye on him.
More to follow later...
Monday, December 24, 2007
Santiago
Sorry for not posting for so long but had a trying few days... things looking up now though!
Arrived Santiago and got transport to hotel... went for a wander only to have my camera stolen along with some cash, spent the rest of the day in the Police station but then joined the arriving Dragoman team for their farewell dinner from the last trip... most of the people were staying on so it was a good opportunity to meet our travel mates for the next 3 weeks. Had a stunning meal in Bellavista, and returned for an early night as we had been up since 4 am. Next day went to the British Consul as directed by Police... wasn´t sure why we had to go there but it was very close to the Nikon centre so we went. As expected when we got there the Consul had no idea why we were there either... they also explained why the Nikon centre wanted to charge me 500 GBP for the same camera I had bought in the UK for 309 GBP.... they have hideous import duty!!!
So back to the nasty old camera... though we have now met many new friends with nice cameras who will share their photos.
In the afternoon we went up Cerro San Crystabel... the local volcano/city park... 60 year old funnicular was a little worrying, but not nearly so as the cable car with doors that didn´t shut properly. Open air church at the top with life size nativity was stunning... as was the huge ice cream that we shared. Lovely afternoon followed by decidedly average meal in the evening as recommended by lonely planet... never again.
Arrived Santiago and got transport to hotel... went for a wander only to have my camera stolen along with some cash, spent the rest of the day in the Police station but then joined the arriving Dragoman team for their farewell dinner from the last trip... most of the people were staying on so it was a good opportunity to meet our travel mates for the next 3 weeks. Had a stunning meal in Bellavista, and returned for an early night as we had been up since 4 am. Next day went to the British Consul as directed by Police... wasn´t sure why we had to go there but it was very close to the Nikon centre so we went. As expected when we got there the Consul had no idea why we were there either... they also explained why the Nikon centre wanted to charge me 500 GBP for the same camera I had bought in the UK for 309 GBP.... they have hideous import duty!!!
So back to the nasty old camera... though we have now met many new friends with nice cameras who will share their photos.
In the afternoon we went up Cerro San Crystabel... the local volcano/city park... 60 year old funnicular was a little worrying, but not nearly so as the cable car with doors that didn´t shut properly. Open air church at the top with life size nativity was stunning... as was the huge ice cream that we shared. Lovely afternoon followed by decidedly average meal in the evening as recommended by lonely planet... never again.
Tuesday, December 18, 2007
Buenos Aires - Part 2 and the pictures
Had our first Argentinian steak for Dinner, after pre-dinner cocktail for Karen & Beer for Patrick. Lovely setting just outside the hotel, in the Park next to the Cemetary... now for the photos.
View from our balcony when we arrived at 4am, looking towards the cemetary where Eva Peron is Buried.
La Boca Area
Lunch in the Square - fantastic Cider but Pat just had beer!
Minty at the Cassa Rossada
New York - Photos
Monday, December 17, 2007
Buenos Aires
17th December 2007
Arrived, changed some money to Peso´s (took ages) and were surprised and delighted to find the hotel rep waiting for us. Got back to hotel about 4am, disappointed with size of jacuzzi but otherwise hotel room amazing. About 5 times the size of the one in New York, and stunning night views of Recoleta Cemetary.
Breakfast at about 9am was lovely, the whole area seemed so peaceful comared with New York. Took a Taxi to La Boca, home of Maradona´s football club and home of many immigrants who have historically painted their houses bright colours with paint stolen from the docks. This is now a touristy area but even Patrick who hates touristy stuff liked it. Walked to the football stadium and up to San Talmo... a lovely cobbled area for lunch in the shade of a tree in a square. Had funny little Argentinian pie things (like little cornish pasties), with Olives, ham, cheese and peppers for lunch.... and some fantastic Cider for Karen.. (Pat had Beer).
Walked to Cassa Rosada for photies and then took a taxi back.
Looking forward to this evening and our first Argentinian steak:-)
Arrived, changed some money to Peso´s (took ages) and were surprised and delighted to find the hotel rep waiting for us. Got back to hotel about 4am, disappointed with size of jacuzzi but otherwise hotel room amazing. About 5 times the size of the one in New York, and stunning night views of Recoleta Cemetary.
Breakfast at about 9am was lovely, the whole area seemed so peaceful comared with New York. Took a Taxi to La Boca, home of Maradona´s football club and home of many immigrants who have historically painted their houses bright colours with paint stolen from the docks. This is now a touristy area but even Patrick who hates touristy stuff liked it. Walked to the football stadium and up to San Talmo... a lovely cobbled area for lunch in the shade of a tree in a square. Had funny little Argentinian pie things (like little cornish pasties), with Olives, ham, cheese and peppers for lunch.... and some fantastic Cider for Karen.. (Pat had Beer).
Walked to Cassa Rosada for photies and then took a taxi back.
Looking forward to this evening and our first Argentinian steak:-)
New York
15th Dec 2007
Well, arrived New York just 1/2 hour late, got taxi to hotel and arrived about 2am. After witnessing our first high speed elevator, the room was as we imagined it would be... and more! Absolutely tiny but well specked.... Bose sound system and LCD TV (pity we could only view American Trash). Went out for a short walk to appreciate the City that never sleeps, had a beer and hit the sack. Up next morning for a fantastic New York Breakfast at the hotel, and then onto our Tour (New York Party Tour). It started in theatre district and I´m sure our guide, Luke was a failed or struggling actor making a buck out of being a "professional guide". He was a born and bred New Yorker, fantastically enthusiastic about his home town, and gave us a day to remember. We saw everything in 51/2 hours, including ferry trip to see Statue of Liberty. Just enough stops to break up sitting on a bus all day. Ended pretty much at Ground Zero, we just went into the church, and ignored the building site that was once the Twin Towers. What struck us both throughout the day was that although you may not agree with US Politics, you can´t help but admire their National Pride.... everybody wanted to tell us about "their" city.
Ended the day with a somewhat hurried trip to the "Top of the Rock" (Rockerfeller Centre) for fantastic dusk/sunset views of New York, was particularly spectacular seeing the Empire State Building from another high building.
Off to the airport for a very long wait... had dinner and then were told our flight delayed by 13 hours. Given voucher for a hotel... train one stop, crammed onto shuttle bus (all credit to the driver who refused to leave anybody standing waiting in the freezing cold) and joined the end of a very long and slow queue at the Ramada Plaza. Some people from a different airlines cancelled flight were told that there was no room for them and they needed to go to another hotel.... we were told there was enough room for all American Airlines passengers. 1.5 hours later I was woken up from my slumber in the hotel foyer sofa to hear the manager saying there were no more rooms and all remaining passengers needed to go back in the cold to the terminal. Then Patrick (the gentleman who had queued while I slept) arrived with a room key saying we´d got the last but one room. I felt so bad for all the familes left..... but was very glad of a bed for the night (despite half the electrics in the room being broken).
16th Dec 2007
Woke in the morning to snow and Patrick studying the American Gritters (ANORAK!!). Went into the airport half expecting to have the flight cancelled again due to the snow storms hitting the US. After much confusion, and no American Airlines staff to be seen, our departure gate came on the screen at the other end of the building to what we had been told. Went for a walk to look and found some of the Air Crew looking equally lost. Took the approach that as long as we stayed with them we could not go far wrong. Got on flight to find some passengers hadn´t come back so waited a further 1.5 hours to get their bags off. One very long and cramped flight later, we arrived BA at 3am on the 17th.... only 16 hours late!. Baggage soaked but otherwise in tact.
Will try to post pictures later
Well, arrived New York just 1/2 hour late, got taxi to hotel and arrived about 2am. After witnessing our first high speed elevator, the room was as we imagined it would be... and more! Absolutely tiny but well specked.... Bose sound system and LCD TV (pity we could only view American Trash). Went out for a short walk to appreciate the City that never sleeps, had a beer and hit the sack. Up next morning for a fantastic New York Breakfast at the hotel, and then onto our Tour (New York Party Tour). It started in theatre district and I´m sure our guide, Luke was a failed or struggling actor making a buck out of being a "professional guide". He was a born and bred New Yorker, fantastically enthusiastic about his home town, and gave us a day to remember. We saw everything in 51/2 hours, including ferry trip to see Statue of Liberty. Just enough stops to break up sitting on a bus all day. Ended pretty much at Ground Zero, we just went into the church, and ignored the building site that was once the Twin Towers. What struck us both throughout the day was that although you may not agree with US Politics, you can´t help but admire their National Pride.... everybody wanted to tell us about "their" city.
Ended the day with a somewhat hurried trip to the "Top of the Rock" (Rockerfeller Centre) for fantastic dusk/sunset views of New York, was particularly spectacular seeing the Empire State Building from another high building.
Off to the airport for a very long wait... had dinner and then were told our flight delayed by 13 hours. Given voucher for a hotel... train one stop, crammed onto shuttle bus (all credit to the driver who refused to leave anybody standing waiting in the freezing cold) and joined the end of a very long and slow queue at the Ramada Plaza. Some people from a different airlines cancelled flight were told that there was no room for them and they needed to go to another hotel.... we were told there was enough room for all American Airlines passengers. 1.5 hours later I was woken up from my slumber in the hotel foyer sofa to hear the manager saying there were no more rooms and all remaining passengers needed to go back in the cold to the terminal. Then Patrick (the gentleman who had queued while I slept) arrived with a room key saying we´d got the last but one room. I felt so bad for all the familes left..... but was very glad of a bed for the night (despite half the electrics in the room being broken).
16th Dec 2007
Woke in the morning to snow and Patrick studying the American Gritters (ANORAK!!). Went into the airport half expecting to have the flight cancelled again due to the snow storms hitting the US. After much confusion, and no American Airlines staff to be seen, our departure gate came on the screen at the other end of the building to what we had been told. Went for a walk to look and found some of the Air Crew looking equally lost. Took the approach that as long as we stayed with them we could not go far wrong. Got on flight to find some passengers hadn´t come back so waited a further 1.5 hours to get their bags off. One very long and cramped flight later, we arrived BA at 3am on the 17th.... only 16 hours late!. Baggage soaked but otherwise in tact.
Will try to post pictures later
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